Last Day!

We decided that our last day had to be much more relaxing.   No tube rides; we explore our own neighbourhood instead.  Walked a couple of blocks from our apartment to the Royal Hospital Chelsea.  This is a place for soldiers to live once they are over 65 and no longer have anyone to care for.  They must have served 20 years in the military and be receiving a military pension.  There is room for 340 live-in pensioners and there are many others who are called out-pensioners.  It's not a hospital as we know it but really an old folks home for singles.  It is run on the military system and they have their own uniform.  We saw a number of fellows and a few women walking around in navy trousers with a red stripe down the side, blue shirt, navy sweater.  When they go out into town the have a special hat with an RH on it.  Their dress uniform is a long red coat with gold braid and a trilby hat.  Quite sharp looking.

The chapel (above) and Great Hall (below) were designed by architect Christopher Wren.

A really well done museum run by volunteers. (this is actually not a real person!!!). All the in-pensioners who are able have volunteer jobs to help run the place.  We enjoyed our quiet visit - no other tourists or visitors!

Lots of parkland around the buildings belonging to the hospital.  This is where the Chelsea Flower Show is held every year in May.  The Thames is just on the other side of the street at the end of this park road.  After we checked out a number of other side roads in "our neighbourhood" we headed home to get organized and packed for our flight back to Canada the next day.  

As our travels around England and Scotland come to an end, I realize that, although I have enjoyed the journey, I am glad to be going home to Victoria after almost 6 weeks of travelling. 

Winding down . . .

Bus transport has eluded us during our previous trips to London, so in our effort to expand our bus experience we set off to go to Trafalgar Square overland. Got the correct bus and trundled merrily along (front seats upstairs) as far as Westminster, when the conductor popped by to ask our destination. National Portrait Gallery, just behind Trafalgar Sq.  Well, it seems that Saturday is a good day for protesters to march - in front of Houses of Parliament and in Trafalgar Sq. So he suggested we get off and walk as the bus had to deviate from its regular route due to crowds of demonstrators. We got off by Big Ben, and strolled along Whitehall to our destination. 

At the Nat'l Portrait Gallery we went directly to the Tudor section - for Henry VII, Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, and some of their pals. To me, these portraits offer very realistic images; eyes seem to sparkle and little smiles reveal character. The Gallery is overwhelming, with rooms off of rooms, and centuries on top of centuries. After exploring for a bit we headed off to find out about a portrait of Marion's great x4 grandfather - Admiral Alan Gardner.  It's actually held at Nat'l Maritime Museum, but she was able to have a colour copy printed off here on art paper, so was pleased. 

Our next stop was Covent Garden.  It had started to rain a little, and the crowds were difficult to negotiate, so we found a coffee shop - only seating was this little bench out front - good people-watching spot!

Although the caffeine recharged us, there were still masses of people in the area. The demonstration had disrupted traffic everywhere, so there were very few vehicles, except police. This made it easier for us to cross the roads (an issue 'cause we're still looking the wrong way before crossing!) but the crowds made it tricky to move.  Apparently there were 80,000 demonstrators in the area that day!  We found a restaurant (opera themed pics and music) for lunch and then called it a day. 

On the recommendation of our Winnipeg friend Pat, our Sunday destination was the Camden Street Market in North London. We arrived here a little in advance of the crowds, so explored some of the lanes and kiosks, still relatively passable.  Everything you can imagine available for sale.  Lots of crafts, antiques, clothes, new and used everything.  Tourist stuff and strange stuff.  Cosmetics, soap, sauces, chocolate and hats, baby clothes and toys for all.  

But then the other folks arrived - train-loads of them, filling the street as they came towards the market.   We bailed for coffee outside the precincts. Then entered the fray one more time. We went through the food kiosks but it became a difficult task to move anywhere so had to extradite ourselves from there and came out along the canal just as a barge went through the lock. Watched the canal and its two locks for awhile and then headed for home. 

Camden lock 

For the second time in 2 days we encountered Tube stations that were closed due to overcrowding.  On both occasions the station was for exit only, and closed to new entries. We were directed to walk 6-8 minutes to next station to access the Tube. Seemed bizarre - 'cause all the same people still ended up on the train.  We could hardly wait to get back to Sloane Square and "home" to feel like we could relax.

Only one more day in London before we fly home. 

To Market, to market....

To buy a fat pig -

On the way to the Borough Market we enjoyed these views along the Thames.

Looking from the Tower Bridge to the south bank.  The large building in front is London City Hall and the pointy one behind is called The Shard, London's highest viewing platform.  It contains a hotel, restaurants and offices and at 72 floors is the tallest building in Western Europe.

We walked across Tower Bridge and then along the Jubilee Walkway on the south bank, and west to London Bridge, which contrary to the nursery rhyme, is not falling down.  We walked south a block to the Borough Market where we did find a fat pig but decided not to buy it after all  ;-)

The market was fun except for some reason it was full of people - away too many people, which is the way I am beginning to think of London.  And they are not just tourists; I think most of these folks actually live here!!!  Anyway the Borough Market is all food, ready to eat food and food to take home and cook for supper tonight, with lots and lots of people eating said food.  They are standing around and sitting on the curbs or pavement as well, as there is no seating available.  

Wendy sampling some cheese.  There is absolutely every kind of food available, from ethnic to just plain old burgers.  One thing you don't see is fish 'n chips wrapped in paper, although you can get it in restaurants on a plate.  

We left the market after sampling an appetizer with a couple of glasses of white wine.  (Do you sense a common theme here?).  The Jubilee walkway is a lovely wide pathway with room for lots of folks and places to sit down and just watch people and the Thames River.  There are many places to eat along the way.  It stretches to Westminster bridge but this time we just went as far as the Millenium Bridge, having done the section to Westminster bridge the last time we were here. 

Some other sights we saw along the walk:

Shakespeare Globe Theatre

Hay's Galleria, at one time a covered wharf for ships delivering tea and now used as a shopping and eating place.

The Golden Hind (replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship)

Looking across the Thames at the modern London skyline. 

And finally we come back across the pedestrian Millennium Bridge to St. Paul's and home again via the Tube - to crash....

Remembrances

This incredible display is at The Tower of London.  Although we had heard about it before coming to England it still takes your breath away.  And then after we had the initial impact we walked around the outside of the tower and had the chance to see the volunteers in action.  Huge group, probably many want to work on the project.  They started August 5 which is the anniversary of the first full day of British involvement in World War I.  The last poppy will be installed by Queen Elizabeth on November 11.  The whole installation will be removed November 12th. Although the display board says British soldiers, when googled it says British and from the colonies (includes Canada).

A group of volunteers posing with a Yeoman of the Guard.  Exciting part of this picture:  female Beefeater!!

We walked from the Tower of London across Tower Bridge (first time) and onto the Jubilee Walkway along the South Bank of the Thames River - also was on our to-do list for this trip.  There were neat views of the London skyline, juxtaposing the old (Tower) with some of the new modern buildings. 

Another day in London!

We have been incredibly lucky with the weather.  Everyone we meet says it is unseasonably nice.  Used my rain jacket maybe 3 times so far and now here in London I am spending the day in a long sleeve tshirt and my nylon vest.  (And my hiking pants but only because that's all I have).  We don't fit in in London but there are so many other tourists here (dressed a la North American) that I don't think we stand out.  (Once you have travelled to Europe you will be able to pick out North Americans by their shoes and their clothes immediately!)

We chose the Imperial War Museum as the museum for this visit.  Spent quite a bit of time there but still had to chose which exhibits to visit.  

We chose the World War 1 exhibit and the Victoria Cross exhibit. Had to leave 2 other floors for a future visit or spend all day and some of the next there.  We were amazed how many school kids could fit into the WW 1 exhibit and still leave a few spots for other visitors! I think they were about grade 4, all with work sheets and questions to answer so lots of chatting and giggling going on.  The exhibition had just been open since July this year so that might be why it was so crowded and also the fact that many of the museums and galleries in London are free.  We were very impressed with this exhibit - it contained a huge amount of detail, so impossible to take it all in, but would like to come back sometime when it's not so busy and we can read more of the signage.

We walked a few blocks to Blackfriars Road near the bridge of same name to visit the office of the Confraternity of Saint James.  This is the British office where many of the English guide books are produced for the Camino pilgrimage route in Spain, and so much information comes out of it.  We had a great discussion with the longtime secretary Marion Marples, about some issues that are common to many Camino groups. 

On Thurs evening we went to the Victoria Palace Theatre to see Billy Elliot the Musical.  It was an AMAZING show!!  We had both seen the movie and although the musical does not follow it exactly it was enough to give us a good understanding of the background.  The children performers were absolutely fabulous, and we left the theatre totally blown away by the show, the dancing and the incredible talent of the 11 year old boy who was playing Billy for that performance.  There are 4 boys who are sharing the role right now.  Since there are 6 evening performances a week and 2 matinees the children share the roles - the musical has been running since 2005 so there have been quite a few Billys as well as the other children in the show.  So worth every penny we paid for the tickets.

We are so pleased to have our comfortable apartment to come home to.  We have a doorman who jumps up to open the door for us.  How cool is that??  

London - Day 1 and 2

To market, to market to buy a fat pig----  

But unfortunately we haven't found a market yet.  But we will, I am confident. 

The saying goes if you are tired of London, you are tired of life!!!  This is my 4th time in London and I feel like I am just starting.  Wendy can't remember how many times she has been here but certainly more than my 4 and still there are museums we haven't seen, streets to explore, parks and paths to check out.  

We are staying in our second Air BnB.  It's a fabulous location right near Sloane Square in Chelsea.  So convenient and very posh we think.

We walked to Buckingham Palace on our first full day in time for the Changing of the Guard but Christopher Robin would have been disappointed to find they only Change the Guard every other day at this time of the year.  (Those poor guards).  

Walked a little way down The Mall and were overtaken by a practice run of royal carriages clip-clopping by.  We pretended there were some Royals passing by so gawked and took pictures of the empty carriages.  We are in London after all.

We walked on to check out Fortnam and Masons, very posh shopping - male clerks in tailed morning coats - everything glittering.  Marion selected some tea to bring home.

Tea department with glass teapots with a handful of dry tea leaves to smell of some of the interesting teas available to buy.  

Picadilly Circus

Had a delicious lunch on top floor of Waterstones Books at Picadilly.  We heard it had a great view but were disappointed to see cranes and construction in front of anything of interest.  Lunch of a goat cheese salad with beets and walnuts with a nice glass of white wine made up for it though.

We walked on to Leicester Square to buy some theatre tickets at the discount booth.  Along the way we found this fellow (a favourite of Wendy's). Who would believe there could be 4 floors to a store selling M&M's!!  We did succumb - weak willed!!!

Stopped at Marks and Spencer's on the way home to get fixings for supper. Both glad to put our feet up at the end of the day of walking.  Luckily our knees are mostly happy again as we put in over 10km today.

Two More Villages: Forest Row & Great Wishford

We landed at Gatwick and were picked up by Wendy's friend from her Winnipeg days.  Ann moved back to England 20 years ago and lives in Forest Row, a small village about 30 minutes south of Gatwick. It's a beautifully decorated very old house.  Narrow with 2 rooms and a small kitchen down and 2 bedrooms up, all rooms in a row.  It's what might be called row housing in Canada, very common in England. Originally had a washroom up on the top floor and toilet out in the back yard but it has now been renovated to modern standards. It's very evident Ann's main hobby is gardening.  Her garden in the back is beautiful.  We had a great visit with Ann, lots of catch up chat and a wonderful dinner out at a local Portuguese restaurant.  One of our best meals on this trip.

We headed off the next day to East Grinstead Rail Way station to travel to Salisbury.  Through Clapham Junction which is one of the main RR stations for changing trains in southern England.  We are getting good at this station as we passed through it 3 times on this trip.  Every amenity you can imagine is available up on the bridge joining the many different tracks.  Food of all kinds, a card store, place to buy nice scarves, shoe shine, drinks, etc etc etc.

And so on to our last small village for this trip.  Great Wishford, just 10 km outside of Salisbury and the home of our friend Pam who we both knew in Winnipeg when all 3 of us were Guiders there.  Pam moved back to England about 25 years ago. Her house is just on the other side of this church yard and the middle house of a row house.

Pam has a lovely garden in her back yard with vegetables, fruit trees and a summerhouse at the very back.  She uses it as her studio for painting, sewing and other crafting.

We spent a day exploring downtown Salisbury.  Much of that time in the famous Salisbury Cathedral.  Construction was begun in 1220 and was completed in just 38 years, which is very quick in cathedral building circles!  Because it was completed so quickly its architecture is more uniform than many other Gothic churches.  It also has the tallest spire in England although it is leaning by approx. 2 feet.  Another interesting feature is the very modern baptismal font - with an infinity pool effect.  

The cloisters of the cathedral.  I always love seeing the green space that was set aside all those years ago for the clergy for quiet contemplation.  It is one of the largest cloisters in England.

We also visited the Chapter House which holds one of the 4 remaining copies of the Magna Carta. (no photos allowed). It is the best preserved and most legible copy still existing.  When this "Great Charter" was drafted, copies were made to be sent throughout the country. This one came through the Canon of Salisbury who was involved in the negotiations that resulted in the document. It is on one piece of sheepskin, written in abbreviated old Latin, and in very small careful script.  Sorry not to be able to share an image with you. 

Some views of the town - 

We thought Salisbury was a lovely town.  Lots of very cute shops and pedestrian walkways.  And some very interesting old Dickens style buildings, half timbered with the top floor projecting out over the ground floor.  I'm sure there is a word for that but I don't know what it is. 

Thank you Pam; we so enjoyed our visit with you.  It was great re-visiting our Manitoba Girl Guide camping days and having a great chin wag over numerous cups of tea. 

Signed - two of your little flowers!!!