World without Strangers (again)!

There were a few times during this trip when we wondered why we are doing this.  Last night we had an experience at our private Gite when we knew exactly why.  The night before we had stayed at a Communal Gite in the town of Arzacq-Arraziguet.  It is a huge place with 77 places but since we were the only ones reserved there would not be any dinner.  (You can go out or make your own).  After our usual routine of showers, washing clothes and hanging out to dry, we went down to the largest Carrefour food store we had encountered on this trip and bought a few things for our dinner.  When we got back the small kitchen was very busy with 4 other Pelerins (pilgrims) who had showed up and were making their dinners.  2 Italians, (the woman shared our room), 1 young Frenchman and an older Spanish guy.  So there were salads and pasta and chicken legs and all sorts of things going on.  We got a spot at the end of the table to have our small dinner of cheese, pears and bread.  This small meal was because we had had a 4 course lunch including a bottle of wine when we arrived in town so did not need a repeat for dinner.  

 We decided that these 4 are all hard core Pelerins.  This means they are walking 30-35 km a day, staying at communal gites every night and making their own meals.  No bus or taxi rides as this would be "cheating".  We had already arranged to take a local mini bus the next day to cut off 20km so we could stay at a Gite we particularly wanted to stay at.  So we hoped we could avoid running into these folks again so they would not look down their noses at us.  

The local transport turned out to be a woman with a mini car.  She is one of a few locals who drive people around the area for 2€ each because they no longer have a local bus in town.  It was a great deal for us.  She dropped us off at Pomps and we walked from there to Arthez-de-Bearn, 8.5 km for a good coffee and then on another 8.5 km to Argagnon and to the wonderful Gite in the country called Cambarrat.  We were welcomed by Nicholas who showed us into our room.  The house is large and beautiful with an extension that includes 2 rooms for Pelerins as well as 3 roulettes (kind of like a gypsy caravan).  We were in bunk beds that were so comfortable, big duvets, lights above each bed, towels, and soap!  We had a lovely relaxing time after doing our routine.  Sitting out in the sun on wicker chairs listening to the birds, drinking tea (me).  Heaven.  And then - in walks the Italian man.  Caught and we had to confess to the bus.  Franco had hiked over 36 km and did not arrive until after 6 but in time for dinner at 7.  We had not had a chance to chat with him the night before but at supper in Cambarrat there were just the 3 of us and he speaks very good English.  When I asked where he lived he said near Rimini, on the Adriatic coast. I told him that we had been to Pesaro in 2011.  He looked at us and then asked why would you, as tourists, go there? I explained that my uncle who had fought in WW2 had died very closed to there and I wanted to visit his grave as well as see the area where my father had fought in the same battle trying to push the Germans back from the Gothic Line.  Franco told us that his father was a very young man at that time and had told him many stories including the fact that the Americans had liberated the Italians.  It surprised Franco to hear that it had been the Canadians up in that area so he said he thought that his father had assumed that if they spoke English they must be Americans.  He said he would go to the cemetery and find my uncles's grave and put a flower on it and he wanted his name so he could find the grave.  He told me he was very moved to hear my story.  

Marion and Franco 

The evening progressed from good to incredible when our host Nicholas brought in our dessert and his banjo and proceeded to play for us.  An incredible concert for 45 minutes: classical, bluegrass, folk.  It was a wow!  He told us how he had wanted to play the banjo from age 10 but it was not possible so he played the guitar and learned music by ear.   And then when he was older he was able to take up the banjo and he now composes and tries to perfect the pieces he knows.  He plays every day and it is his pleasure to play for any Pelerins who stay in his Gite.  He is a retired forester and he and his wife run the Gite in this lovely house they built in 1998. 

And we hike on tomorrow.  Tonight we are in a hotel in Navarrenx.  We had dinner with Marjory of Deep River, Ontario and Beatrice from Switzerland.

We have completed 674km and have 3 more days of hiking left (60km) before we arrive in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (our goal).