Regensburg to Munich then home

Our last 24 hours in Germany saw us spending  the morning in Regensburg wandering up and down small streets just enjoying the old town. It was a Sunday morning so only the odd little store was open, most stores are closed. We went first to the Cathedral to see if we could catch the end of the 10am mass. They have a renowned boys choir who sing at the service and they bring in many more than the regular congregation to hear them. The service started at 10am and we arrived at 11 to a very full cathedral, standing room only. We got to see the choir but only heard one hymn. After the celebrants left, the organ went into full bore and we thoroughly enjoyed listening. Once we moved up to the transept the sound was totally encompassing. That pipe organ could lift the rafters, and they are a long way up!!

We then walked down to the river again.  We caught a nun leaving the cathedral on her bike - not something we see everyday.

There is a pathway along the Danube where the river cruise ships tie up, with great views of the historic stone bridge which had 16 arches. Not possible to count them all just now as it is being restored. This has being going on since 2010. So we should not feel hard done by re the length of time the new bridge in Victoria is taking to be built. I think it takes much longer when you have to follow UNESCO rules.

We love these old signs that were hung outside businesse; in the day when so much of the population could not read, they could tell by the symbols hung above the door whether this was a bakery, a meat market or a place that sold hats. Not sure what this sign means. But the little store beside it was fascinating. It was open and sold advent calendars of every kind. Not full of chocolates like at home, but filled with lovely little pictures. Old fashion houses, cats, sports, nativity scenes, everything you could think of. What a fun browse!

At noon we made our way to the train station, only a few blocks from our hotel, and left Regensburg for a 90 minute ride back to Munich. We found our way back to same hotel we had been in 5 weeks ago after a little turn around coming out of the station by a different door. That messed us up for a few minutes. Finally go onto the right street and soon we were checked in. They did manage to get us on the 3rd floor this time after our last visit when we were on the fourth floor under the rafters. Remember this is the hotel with no elevator (and ground floor counts as 0, not first floor.)  But the staircase has a heritage wooden bannister that one can contemplate while lugging a suitcase upwards. 

We went off for dinner in the rain, to find a place in our guide book. It was an old hotel restaurant with very high ceilings and magnificent doors, windows and chandeliers. We were both schnitzeld and goulashed out so the fried chicken with roast potatoes was good. The wine very good. We are both going to miss our new favorite white wine, Gruner Veltliner. It's so crisp and refreshing and amazingly cheap. What else could one ask for?

Monday we had the morning in Munich to pack and a couple of hours to wander and pick up a few last minute items before heading to the airport and our 3:45 flight home to Vancouver and on to Victoria. Good thing we headed out early as there are a number of check points you have to go through including the first security where both of us had full body searches, boots off, money belt had to be removed and go through security again. No one asks if you would like to do it in private, it's just right there in front of everyone. Then passport control, then line up for green stamp at boarding gate. All the Canadians are asking "green stamp, what's a green stamp?" Just one more ticket and passport check. A relief to finally get on the plane. So with three hours at the airport I still didn't have time to check our the duty free shopping. Sad! 

We will both be glad to get home, it's time.

On to Regensburg

On Friday we moved from Prague in Czech Republic to Regensburg, Germany. We are now down to the last few days of our trip. It was a 4.5 hour train trip, arriving at 5:50pm. Good thing our hotel was close to train station as we'd arranged to be picked up at 6:15pm by the daughter of Wendy's cousin. 

Robin had arranged a Canadian Thanksgiving dinner for us and some of her German friends (total of 8). There was a beautiful roast turkey with stuffing and gravy and veggies, and pumpkin cheesecake and apple pie for dessert.  So good all around!!  The chat was largely in German, with some English interludes. This all happened at the Dog club that Robin belongs to - with a larger kitchen and dining space than any local apartments offered. The dogs only joined us after the meal!! (Forgot to get photos). 

On Saturday morning we walked into the streets of the old city - and easily lost our way in the cobbled lanes and narrow streets. What amazed both of us was how quiet the streets were. No big groups and selfie-stick armed tourists to be seen even though the cathedral here is also a UNESCO site. For this reason we have decided Regensburg is our new favorite town!

But you do have to watch yourself with guys like this wandering the streets!

In the afternoon Robin took us on a walking tour of the old city. She's lived here for 9 years and knows it pretty well as well as speaking German. 

Robin and Wendy

The cathedral is spectacular, inside and out. That's King Ludwig I guarding it. 

 

First church was built here in 11th century. 

The current high Gothic building was completed by 1520, and many original early stained glass windows still remain.  Their colours are so vibrant compared to modern ones.  Photos don't do them justice!

We also saw the nearby Stone Bridge, it's 16 arches spanning the Danube River since the 12th century. Like many other historic structures, it is currently being renovated so we could only get a photo of the first few arches, and the south tower with its clock. 

We stopped at the Church of St. James which is on the route of St. Jakob's Weg, as the Camino is known in Germany.  We're a looong way from Santiago in Spain!

After we'd walked our socks off we stopped in to a neat cafe called 'Anna's' for cappuccinos and cake. 

Best cappuccino I have had since being over here, and I told the fellow. He seemed quite tickled. 

Robin took us to the train station to show us how to buy the cheaper tickets for the train. Tomorrow we head back to Munich for a night in the same hotel we were in when we arrived in Germany. We are hoping we don't have to be on the 4th floor again. It's a long way up without an elevator. 

More Prague

Out into a misty rain to the train station this morning to arrange our onward travel for tomorrow. Easily done - no line ups there. 

We then followed our guide book walk of Wenceslas Square - a long wide boulevard with greenery in the middle and pedestrian walkways in middle and on sides. 

The National Museum is at the top of one end, and just in front is our favourite Saint - Wenceslas - mounted this time. He's surrounded by four minor saints, each carrying a book. It is said that this is a small nation without any military power, and so Czechs' have thinkers as their national heroes, not warriors. 

For us the interesting aspect of this square is as the location of historic events in the 20th century. Soviet tanks rolled in here in 1968 to crush the growing independence movement.  Then in 1989 the Velvet Revolution occurred here - when thousands of people gathered here every night, jangling their keys as a signal that it was time to unlock their chains and for the communists to leave.  This allowed the formation of Czechoslovakia. Later, in 1993, this split peacefully into the Czech Republic and Slovakia (the Velvet Divorce). This country is fiercely proud of its hard-won independence. We saw several young tour guides here who were passionately explaining this history to their groups. 

We moved on to an Art Deco mall (1930's) to see a 1999 sculpture by a modern Czech artist who aims to promote controversy. It is called "Wenceslas Riding an Upside-Down Horse" and swings from an Art Deco glass dome. 

We have noticed that there don't seem to be any traffic lights in old city. There are lots of pedestrian crosswalks, and cars and pedestrians just look out for each other. Seems to work very well. 

Dinner tonight was in a nice quiet restaurant (opposite to beer hall atmosphere of a few nights ago).  Wendy loved their 'wine library'.

Marion had the veal schnitzel - nicely done - with grilled carrots and potato purée. We've had schnitzel several times on this trip, and neither of us have ever been able to eat more than half of it. Ditto for tonight!

Not alone in Prague!

We set off this morning to take the tram to visit Prague Castle. As seniors, we can ride all public transit for free!

Got off the tram with dozens of others, only to find many more dozens already in line to enter the facility. This was a security check - first we have encountered since our arrival in Europe. It was quick and rudimentary, conducted by police who gave instructions in Czech, and then the masses were admitted to Prague Castle - which is a walled complex on a hill with several historic buildings inside. It has been the seat of power for emperors, Kings, Nazis, communists and presidents for over a thousand years! 

Within the grounds our first stop was St. Vitus Cathedral, the Czech national church. It's a fantastic Gothic structure whose construction began in the 1400's, but it was not completed until 1929.  The beautiful tympanum over the main door is elaborate and detailed. Just above it are 4 guys in modern suits who were the architects who completed it. 

The interior nave is very tall and long with ribbed vaulting on the ceiling, and some amazing stained glass windows. 

We loved the carvings on the organ loft. 

For Czechs the highly decorated side chapel of St. Wenceslas is the heart of the Cathedral. It contains the tomb of their patron saint, as well as a statue of him. Former Bohemian Kings were crowned in this chapel. 

The exterior view of the rear of the building is a mass of copper rooves and flying buttresses - very impressive. Reminds us of our favourite view of Notre Dame in Paris. 

The other interesting part of the complex was the Vladislav Hall inside the Royal Palace. Dating from the 12th century, it's another vaulted ceiling and a wonderful wooden floor. It was used for meetings of the nobility, or sometimes for jousts (stairs leading in are sloped to allow for horses) or even to set up market stalls so that the nobles didn't have to go into town to shop!

We've avoided - sometimes with difficulty - showing you the masses of visitors throughout. There are some nationalities who insist on taking multiple "selfies" at every possible location, sometimes a dozen or more of them cycling through prime photo locations. At times we felt we were in "selfie-stick hell" as the place was bristling with them. We've noted others who find this offensive but it is lost on the perpetrators. 

Every niche filled with selfie- addicts!

We made our way down the lane ways, through a small vineyard, to town below. 

Stopped for lunch where Wendy tried an item that has been on several menus - fried cheese, which turned out to be quite good (although maybe not for my cholesterol levels!)

Prague day 2

Slow start on this damp day - first rain we've had for ages. We togged up and went off to explore the old city of Praha (Prague). So many different styles of architecture (note roof lines and colours) and wonderful cobbled streets everywhere. 

These are just some of the buildings in the centre of town - Staré Mesto - surrounding the old market square. It has been a commercial centre since the 13th century. 

The Astronomical Clock, built in the 1330's is very complex to us so must have been astounding in its day!  

More roof lines - all different.

Backside of the Gothic Tyn Church with its twin spires. As with many other churches here it has gone back and forth between being Catholic and Protestant, depending who is in power. 

The Estates Theatre, built in 1780's, was a prime venue for opera then, and is where Mozart's Don Giovanni premiered. Love the green colour. 

This big black 500-year old tower, known as the Powder Tower ('cause they kept gunpowder here)  was the main gate of the old town wall - the formal front door to the city from Vienna. The trapezoidal roof is characteristic of Prague architecture in the 1400's. 

We found our way to the Main Street market. One side was all souvenirs, a few hand made, and other side was mainly fruits - nicely displayed!

By then our feet were flat so we went 'home' for a snack and to put our feet up for a bit.  Our next foray out was an evening stroll across the famous Charles Bridge. The rain had stopped and we even had some blue sky and sunshine.

Walking towards the bridge from our hotel - more painted and decorated buildings. 

Then the first Gothic defensive tower to this 14th century bridge. There were masses of people here. The street leading to this point is quite narrow so the crowds shuffle slowly along, and then emerge together onto the bridge. Crowd thins a bit as bridge widens. There are artists and musicians along the way, so it's very much a stop-start situation. 

Some buskers out on a lovely evening. 

Both sides of the bridge are lined with religious statues - mostly various saints.  Again, the Church wanted to be sure everyone knew who was most powerful. This was the only bridge in town for 400 years so people regularly walked by these pious statues!

Charles Bridge

The other side of the bridge - with the castle on the top left.

We watched the little barges on the canal. 

We were so fortunate to have a clear evening with a full moon (or close) as we strolled back towards town. A beautiful way to finish the day!  

Well - Wendy's evening closed with garlic boar with potato pancakes and spinach (all were pervaded with garlic!), but the boar was tasty!  Marion had the very ordinary roast chicken in a sauce.

Nashledanou!  (Czech for goodbye)

Prague here we come

We had the morning in Vienna and so we fit in one more old classic Viennese cafe:

Folks drinking coffee and reading newspapers (choice of German, French, English and American papers) all laid out on a billiard table. One of Wendy's favourite things to do.  

Then off to very modern and busy train station in Vienna where we caught our train to Prague.

Arrived just after 5pm after 4 hour trip. 

First order of business was to find an ATM to get Czech korunas.  $1.00 CAD = about 18CZk, so we are immediately into the hundreds or thousands of units when doing anything - coffee for two was 130 CZk, 2 apples were 18, and dinner was closer to 600. Coins range from 1 - 5 - 10 - 20 - 50, and then you jump to bills of 100, 200, etc up.  However we have since noticed that in the market area vendors were also accepting euros at a fair exchange rate. 

We made the walk to our hotel in about 20 min (after refusing to pay price quoted by taxi). We read in our guide book to be careful of overcharging taxi drivers. It easy to do when you are not familiar with the money.

This is an old brewery that has been turned into a hotel and beer hall restaurant.

So - we were given a welcome drink in the lobby after we'd checked in. And it was welcome after pulling our suitcases along the cobbled streets that are everywhere in Prague's old town. 

We have a great room here - extremely spacious - nice change from small space in Vienna. We made a quick trip to nearby department store grocery department for needed supplies. Then entered the frey of the beer hall for dinner. It was noisy, with no-nonsense waiters and shared tables. We sat with a couple from Finland. Good meal, but they really focus more on beer than wine (which only came in 2 kinds - red or white!)

We were both ready for an early bed after our travels. Looking forward to exploring the city tomorrow.