Home again, home again, Jiggity Jig

We arrived home Tuesday night after a long journey but no issues. All planes arrived in time for us to catch the next one and our packs which we had checked in going home, arrived in Victoria. Can’t ask for more than that!

As usual there is always lots of cleanup and catchup once we get home. Not sure how there can be such a big pile of laundry when we both just had 2 sets of clothes with us. Our adventure did not unfold as we had planned, but when it went off in a different direction it was still a great adventure. We had thought we would hike for 3 weeks and it turned out to be one week. We loved the scenery and the places we hiked through that week but we realized when we got to Pamiers that we were done with that Camiño walk. If there had been a pack transfer available and accommodation every 20k we would have been able to hike on. But we cannot hike 30km and more each day anymore. Actually we never could!

And so plan B allowed us to visit some of the other places in southern France that we have wanted to see. We can highly recommend Albi in France and Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava in Spain. And certainly the highlight for both of us was the medieval festival in Perpignan. That was totally unexpected and we felt like we had really lucked in. The most amazing thing about it was the cost, 0€, nothing, zilch, as in all free! Only the food had a price tag. Wow. It’s was very well supported by the community and the city but I am not sure where the funds came from to bring in all the entertainment. 

In the end we did all the things we like to do when we go to Europe: we hiked, we did some local walks, we heard some great music, we sat in outdoor bars drinking coffee/and or wine, I dipped my toes in the Mediterranean, and we had an opportunity to go to a couple of great weekly markets, Albi being the best. Who knows where the next adventure will take us.

Tossa de Mar - last day

Today we said goodbye to a great week in Tossa de Mar and boarded the bus to the Barcelona airport, about a 2 hour trip. We are staying at an airport hotel tonight and will take the shuttle to the airport at 7am tomorrow to start our trip home.

Yesterday we did another great hike right from our apartment up into the hills along the coastline to the north of town. It was much steeper and more difficult than the hike a couple of days ago and the temperature warmer. The hike goes to 2 more beaches but we just went up to a great viewpoint, and then hiked back again. One of us wanted to hitchhike back to town but I talked her out of it!!

What views! When we got back to town the weekend medieval festival was still in full swing and an extra bonus for us was sitting for a drink out along the beachfront and this band went by. Once again bagpipes!

Tossa de mar last day

For our last day in Tossa we decided to do a hike that follows along the coast line called Mirador cami de ronda. The trail goes up a lot of stairs right from the corner of the castle wall. Not many folks on the trail probably because it’s up for 30 minutes or so. But the view looking back to Tossa and the castle is fabulous. It was a cloudy day today so good for hiking, not too warm. At the end of the route right on the top of a cliff following the coastline, a GR route heads off into the trees and eventually to Lloret de Mar. We headed back downhill (all stairs), and the chance to see all the scenery from the other side.

Update: this is not our last day in Tossa after all. We were suppose to take the bus to Barcelona on Saturday for our last 3 days where we were booked into an apartment/hotel. Friday was a day of mass demonstrations right down in the heart of the city, much of it just a few streets away from the apartment we had rented.  Over ½ million Catalonians filled the streets, and some young folks engaged the Spanish police. We have decided that we are not interested in getting caught up in this situation for our last few days in Spain so we have extended our stay here on the Costa Brava for 2 extra nights, and then made a booking at a hotel at the Barcelona airport for Monday night. It’s unfortunate we will miss out on our 3 days in Barcelona but right now it’s not presenting its best side. It’s very pleasant by the seaside in Tossa, and hopefully the protests will be over by Monday when we take the bus in.

Tossa de Mar, around & about

We have had a great few days wandering around this little town. Yesterday we went to the weekly market. Something we love to do – each one so unique, never know what you will see. This one was mostly clothes with some leather purses, shoes, a few tablecloths, underwear. About 3 blocks of end to end trucks that open up to display their goods. On 2 of the side streets were tables of veggies and fruit, meat and cheese. We bought veggies for supper: potatoes, green beans, an avocado and a handful of fresh figs – all for 5€. Later we bought a bbq’d chicken and we have dinner for 2 nights.  At this point in our travels we are both tired of eating out and by eating in we can help balance the budget. 

We spent hours wandering around the castle that is a very prominent feature of Tossa. It’s very old, 12th Century, with Roman sections of the wall that run along the town side. There are lots of old stone  buildings inside with shops and restaurants. A light house up at the very top has a great bar and restaurant that has an incredible view out over the Mediterranean and the cliffs of the Costa Brava.  The very best views of all are along the far side of castle looking over the rugged coastline. It’s a WOW!

Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava

Leaving Perpignan for the next part of our trip nearly turned into a “you can’t get there from here” adventure France is famous for (in our books). We had rented this Air B&B apartment from Victoria and had paid in full for it so we had to get there. Wendy and a Tourist Info gal in Perpignan persisted for hours (or so it seemed to me since they were doing it all in French) and finally came up with a plan. The tourist info gal kept saying “trés compliqué”.

We left by train to Girona, just a 40 min ride on TGV, then bus to Girona, airport, then bus to Lloret de Mar, then last bus from Lloret de mar to Tossa de Mar. Its not that it is a secret place with no tourists, just that most folks probably come by car. In spite of the multiple changes the whole trip only took about 3 hours door to door.

We were amazed and a bit horrified by the number of police at the train station, bus station and airport in Girona. Wendy was able to find some English news that the political situation in Girona and Barcelona has escalated with Spain throwing all the Catalonia separation leaders in jail. There are independence protests in several cities. We are hoping things will have settled down before we head back to Barcelona after next weekend.

Tossa de Mar is a Mediterranean sea side village, very much a tourist place. Lots of little winding streets carving off from the beach. It’s on a bay with a castle at one end and big rocks at the other. A beautiful wide expanse of a coarse sand with big breakers crashing onto a fairly steep beach. I always wade right in and test the temperature when I get to the ocean. Felt lovely and warm. The waves pull back with a strong surge and the sand goes with it. Luckily for me there is no picture when this happened as I sat right down in the receding water. Only got one side of me wet though!!!

Seems like we are hearing lots of German and Eastern European languages. Some English, Irish but not much North American. It’s off season right now, noticing many hotels closed until January. Lots of restaurants everywhere. Lots of places for coffee along the beach. Servers all seem to have English and probably words of many of the other languages spoken here. We are very pleased with our air B&B apartment. It’s on the 4th floor of an condo building, small but has everything we need and super clean. The owners left a bottle of red wine on the table for us and have been very attentive to answering any queries we have had. Very comfortable and we are just ½ block from the beach.

Perpignan Medieval Festival pictures

Campo santo - a former cloister cemetery behind cathedral now
used for events. It was full of displays, games to play
and entertainment stage.

 

Equestrian spectacle

Sword fighting

Interesting bands - all of them have bagpipes

Wonderful games for kids which seem to attract the whole family. 

Perpignan - Medieval Festival

We lucked into the weekend of the Medieval Festival here.  The narrow streets of the old city are full of people, many in period costumes that range from armoured soldiers, falconers, jugglers, stilt-walkers, lords and ladies (some with their dogs), and many different types of musicians. They all paraded through the streets for an hour, led by the giant King and Queen dancing to the music of the first of the Catalan pipe bands. BTW – there is ample evidence of Catalan support here – flags and language, even though we are still in a France. 

Later we saw this medieval merry-go-round. Two live musicians provide the music while it’s in motion.  The mouse/rat character on right side turns a geared barrel by hand to make it go.

The Rataurante cart was a big hit as it went through the streets. Note ‘cooked’ rats hanging from top bar for sale. The woman had garlic bulbs in her hair, one blacked tooth, and often approached the kids to try sell them a plate of rats!

There are a few more scenes from this weekend’s festival activities in the next blog.

Perpignan

We arrived by train yesterday (Friday) afternoon feeling a bit tired and grumpy. We had to change trains back in Toulouse and the next train was an old one and very full so we were quite cramped. Wendy had the directions to walk from the train station to our hotel ready. It always seems to be through the grungiest part of town and you start to wonder about spending any time here. But then we arrived and sat outside for a lovely café grand crème before going up to our room. On the 3rd floor again but this time there is an elevator. Yeh!!! The room is clean with good big windows that open to the street and to trees.

Using our handy dandy local map of the old town part of this city we found our way to a beautiful canal with so many restaurants alongside. We found the tourist info office, and low and behold there is a Medieval Festival this weekend.  We  found lots of interesting shops and a big Carrefour city store for some supplies.

Castille - The town gate

Albi favorite pics

 We love all the little streets of half-timbered houses here in Albi. 

Some updated with fresh paint on the timbers but some look ancient.

This is one of a few little streets in Albi decorated to bring attention
to breast health awareness month. I think it looks so cool.

My favorite salad: chèvre chaud. This one was enough to fulfil my appetite for this for at least a week. Below: Wendy’s favorite, melon and jambon, also enough for a week!!!

In and around Albi

October 10:
We have done a couple of good walks while in Albi. The map from the tourist office has 3 walks on it. The longer one went from the Cathedral, across the river Tarn on the medieval Pont Vieux and along to a few great view spots where we could look back at the city centre and some of the medieval roof lines, then back across the newer bridge named Pont 22 Aout 1944. (The French name many roads and bridges after historical dates - this one the day the Germans fled Albi.) There is a monument just at the beginning of the bridge to the resistance fighters.

On the city centre side of River Tarn with Pont Vieux on the far right

On the other side of river from viewpoint looking at cathedral and 

Pont Vieux in front with railway bridge in the distance

Today we did a different walk on a trail called Eshappee Verte. It is a lovely nature path right along the edge of the river Tarn then off along a creek called Ruisseau Caussels right through town although feels like a long way from anyone. We did about 8km along the trail and back again. There is a bamboo forest like I have never seen before.

Pont du 22 Août 1944, from the trail

Sunday and Monday in Albi

PS the video I tried to load in last blog will not, so please ignore.

The weather has changed since we arrived here. Cooler, cloudy and a bit of rain. We are now wearing most of our clothes including rain jackets. This town is amazing, the cathedral and the episcopal palace are UNESCO world heritage sites so that brings lots of tourists to town. We have been around the Cathedral Sainte-Cecile a couple of times, inside and out.  It is a massive brick structure with huge towers and bells that ring the hours. The interior is totally painted, much of it in dark colours, giving a sombre atmosphere. Wendy was fascinated with the huge 15th century painting of the “Last Judgement”. We also  visited the Choir of the cathedral, where the choir screen is considered to be some of the finest surviving sculptured medieval carvings (all angels and bishops).

We visited the formal gardens of the bishop’s palace (now contains the Toulouse-Lautrec gallery). We will see that later but the gardens are beautiful especially with the view across the River Tarn. The site now belongs to the city of Albi and the Tarn Department.