Inverness

Arriving at the Inverness railway station.  With all the train rides we have taken on this trip we are blessing the train clerk in Windsor who advised us to buy a Senior's Rail card. 

Our B and B in Inverness.  Small room but very nice folks and lovely shower.  One starts to appreciate a good shower when mostly confronted with big old bathtubs.

Looking across the River Ness.  Apparently the Loch Ness Monster is not far away!

Inverness castle (now used for offices)

We had a lovely walk down one side of the river on a paved path called Ladies Walk.  Since we saw lots of folks of both genders we are not sure why it is called Ladies Walk.

We wandered along the river walk until we came to the little islands in the middle of the river.  By crossing one bridge you can get onto the first island, walk along the length of that island, cross over another bridge joining those two islands then along the length of that one to the last island and bridge over to the far side of the river.  Back to the downtown along the other side of the river.  Very neat and beautiful with the emerging fall colors.

     

We checked out sporrans in a wonderful kilt shop selling everything Scottish. 

 

And then found this great used book store.  It had 2 floors of old books, prints and maps and a big wood burning stove in the middle of it.  You can see logs piled behind the prints table in front of Marion.  It smelled old and dusty and we felt like we were stepping back in time.

We really liked Inverness.  It has a wonderful "feel" to it.  Comfortable.  We popped in and out of various stores, Marks and Spencer's being my favorite. I have never stayed over in Inverness before but I have been through it a number of times on the train on other trips I have made to Scotland.  While waiting for my next train I used to go to M & S and buy a picnic lunch in their wonderful "food to go" section.  

That evening on our way over to a local pub for dinner (another dinner not worth mentioning, although the wine was good) we heard bagpipes.  It was after 7pm, dark and wet and the draw of the music outdoors too enticing to resist.  We passed by the pub and carried on down to the river banks, about 3 blocks away.  Across the river on the road we could see a pipe band followed by maybe 100 folks carrying torches.  Tried to take a picture but it's not good as you can see below.  But just imagine how neat it was.  We would have followed them except by the time we got to the bridge to cross over to where they were they would be long gone.  We found out the next morning from our taxi driver on the way to the airport that the parade marked the beginning of the week long Mod Festival. It is an annual event held in a different part of Scotland each year celebrating everything Gaelic, music, theatre etc.  

After a week in Scotland we flew south to Gatwick with Easy Jet.  We were both apprehensive flying on this budget airline because of the luggage rules.  They look at all luggage carefully including carry on with very strict weight and size limits.  Only tap water is free and available on board, everything else including tea and coffee costs.  We managed to jump all the hurdles and an hour and 20 minutes later we were landing back in England at Gatwick.

Isle of Skye

Speed Bonnie boat, like a bird on the wing -

Well - it's not exactly the same going to the Isle of Skye as it was for Bonnie Prince Charlie.  We took the West Highland Railway from Glasgow to Mallaig. It goes through some wild Scottish countryside - hills, heathers, bracken, rushing streams cascading down, and at one point the track crossing over the 21-span Glenfinnan Viaduct (seen in Harry Potter films on the way to Hogwart's)

After a 5 and a half hour train ride we arrived at the port of Mallaig, and walked over to the ferry dock for the final part of our journey to Skye. 

We were met there by Marion's pen pal, Joyce, and made the very short drive to her home.  Joyce and her husband Bob had moved into this house only two days before our arrival, but had everything well organized for us. We felt very honored that they were willing to have us visit so soon after their move. 

Joyce's new home

Next day Joyce took us on a loop tour on the Sleat peninsula of Skye. It's quite wild and natural.

Distant craggy peaks are the Black Cuillins. 

Lots of sheep, some cows, the odd house, 1 coffee shop!

Coffee at Slighachan Hotel on day 2 on the Isle of Skye

It's a major centre for rock climbers in the Black Cuillins, the tallest and most rugged hills in Scotland.  This is the location of the "Inaccessible Pinnacle" ride -  the recent viral bike ride to an amazing peak. 

Google "Danny Macaskill - The Ridge" to see an incredible cyclist from just down the road from here!  

Walkers cross over the Slighachan estuary on this old bridge to reach the trails.

Joyce and I said good-bye at the Kyle of Lochalsh railway station.  We have been pen pals for 56 years.  Once again she showed us parts of the Isle of Skye that tourists would never get to see.  Thank you Joyce!

On to Inverness.  

 

Edinburgh

We are staying in our very first Air BnB in Edinburgh.  It's very comfortable.  It's with a busy family of twin 14 yr old boys so lots of noise as they run up and down the stairs but other than that - it's quiet. They must use earphones for their music!  The weather changed just before the train drew into Waverley station in Edinburgh and the rains were lashing down.  

We got settled into our room and then headed back to town for a pub supper - very busy on a wet Friday night!

Next morning we visited the National Portrait Gallery and enjoyed an exhibit of paintings of soldiers and politicians who had played pivotal roles in WW1. We then realized we were at the wrong gallery to meet our friends Mary and Les so hurried over to the right museum.  They had left home in Victoria a week after us and have already been to visit friends in Spain and south of France - with some amazing twists involving consulates (lost passports) couriers and railway authorities. It took a couple of hours over coffee for us both to share our stories. We moved on to check out Princes Street Gardens (sun had come out by then), share a pub lunch and explore the city together.  

The next day we decided to follow up on our Windsor Castle visit by checking to see if we could have tea with the Queen on the Royal Yacht Britannia. Unfortunately she had sold it several years ago, but we took the tour anyway and had a lovely tea without her. 

Our new favourite lunch is Coronation Chicken sandwich - chunks of chicken with curried mayo, mango chutney, raisins, cucumber, lettuce and tomato.  Nummy!

We took a bus home, seeing a different part of the city.  Have really noticed the architecture here - so different than what we've encountered so far and buildings all made of the same Scottish stone.

Marion is fascinated by the rows of chimney pots on the roofs.

We saw this little Messerschmidt vehicle bombing down the street - apparently just like the old plane but with 3 wheels and no wings. 

We tried another cute little place for dinner that night called The Olive Branch Bistro.  We each ordered a main dish with the idea that we would share 1/2 and 1/2.  Mine was Moroccan Chicken over butternut squash.  It was delicious and I was very sad I had made the arrangement to share.  Wendy's meal was lamb goulash and it was nothing to write home about.  Enough said!

Dessert on the other hand - was a nummy chocolate peanut butter cheese cake which we shared. Lucky for me Wendy felt it was too rich.  

Tomorrow "Over the Sea to Skye".

A Special Friend and Another Village

Our next stop was yet another small English village. We've really been getting a taste of village life with our past few visits. 

We took the train to Hemingford-Grey, just a few miles outside of Cambridge, to visit with an old school friend of Wendy's.  Judy and I first met at boarding school in Toronto in 1955, and were room-mates there. We last saw each other in 1976, and much water has gone under the bridge since then. We have been in occasional email contact but it was so neat to be together and reminisce for a couple of days. Judy has a wonderful 'cottage' in the village, and everyone there knows each other, and cares for each other. Just before we arrived Judy's cat had been lost for a week. He'd been found again two days before we arrived, but while we were there Judy received multiple phone calls asking about him. The neighbours were all concerned!

The Rose Cottage in Hemingford-Grey

   

Wendy and Judy in the back garden at Rose Cottage.

Judy laid on a great day for us. We started with a visit to the next village of St. Ives (NOT the same one as we'd spent the first 2 weeks in Cornwall). It has a wonderful medieval bridge across the Ouse River, and is one of only 4 bridges in England to contain a chapel on the bridge (allegedly for pilgrims). 

Next we went to visit the Manor House in her village, and learned about its history. The original structure was built in Norman times (1066 and all that!). It has been partially destroyed by fire and renovated since then. It is one of the oldest continuously habited houses in England. In 1939 it was purchased by Lucy Boston, author, artist and quilter. She wrote a series of successful children's books, based on this house/area as location. During WW2 Lucy invited airmen from the nearby base to come to her music room for relaxing evenings.  The 1929 gramophone there is still in operation, as well as a large collection of 78rpm records. Her daughter-in-law now owns the house and opens it for daily tours. We too listened to the music. 

The 1929 gramophone with huge papier-mâché speaker. 

The children's room In the Manor House - scenes from the books. 

Next we took the bus into Cambridge.  Had a great lunch at Bill's Restaurant, one of Judy's favourites - delicious!  Then we made our way to the banks of the River Cam to get a rental punt. Settled into a boat with an "oarsman". Is that the correct term for one guy with a pole?  Anyway, off we went on the River, past the iconic colleges, lawns, students - under bridges and all along the river. Saw New College, Trinity, and King's College. It was a thrill for Wendy to see King's College Chapel where so much great music originates.  Along the way we encountered students who are new to Cambridge and seemed to be attempting their initiating punting experience. They were crossways in the river, bumping into other boats, and howling with laughter.  But nobody fell in!  (Were we disappointed?). Overall it was neat to punt the Cam, and notch up another travel experience.

Kings College Chapel, Cambridge - as seen from the river. 

After a great day out we were happy to return to Rose Cottage for a relaxing dinner and more reminiscing. 

Another manor home visit

1. Owlpen Manor is a Tudor Manor house owned by the Mander family, situated in the village of Owlpen in the Stroud district in Gloucestershire.

   
   

   

   
   

   Marion:  I had been in touch with Sir Nicholas Mander a few years ago when he was looking for some information about the history of the Cornwall family in B.C. So I had emailed him to tell him we would be staying at Ashcroft House.  He invited us over for a cup of tea.  He was a very gracious host, showing us around his home where he and his family have lived since 1974.  The house is open for tours and has a number of "cottages" for rent as well as great gardens and facilities for weddings and special events.  "Cottages" are a bit of an understatement we discovered when we drove by them.  "Wow" is more like it.    Sir Nick and his wife have many gorgeous antique pieces and art in their home.  It was fun to see them and to learn more about the history of the house and the surrounding area.

   
   

               

   Inside Owlpen Manor House

   

Sir Nick and I looking at tiny beaded purses belonging to his grandmother in one of the bedrooms.

A very old Spanish screen belonging to Nicholas's grandparents, that uses pages from a choir hymnal from the 1500-1600's.  The pieces holding them in place are leather with studs.  The interesting thing is that Wendy has a similar page that was presented to her by the Early Music Society of the Islands when she retired from her volunteer job last year so it was very exciting to see this large collection. 

Marion and Sir Nicholas Mander

Owlpen chapel where great great grandfather Rev. A.G. Cornwall was the minister.  

He also preached at 2 other chapels -

Kingscote chapel being one and the 3rd chapel, Bagpath was decommissioned in 1974.

Wikapedia:

The Rev. Alan Gardner Cornwall of Ashcroft was rector of Bagpath in the early nineteenth century and published a standard account of life in this rural area at that time.^[2] His sons emigrated to British Columbia, Canada while it was still a British colony during the gold rush. There they founded the small town of Ashcroft (see Ashcroft, British Columbia), built for travellers in search of gold, giving them a place to stay and saddle their horses. 

A.G. Cornwall and his wife Caroline Kingscote Cornwall had 14 children, 12 surviving to adulthood.  In fact only two of his sons travelled to the new world, one being my great-grandfather, Clement Cornwall.  

And so on to Hemingford Grey near Cambridge by train.

Ancestral homes

Marion:  We arrived at Ashcroft House, Gloucestershire after being picked up at the train station by Ben Harford whose family has owned the manor since 1944 when Ben was 2.  The Cornwalls owned the house from 1825 to 1895. My great grandfather, Clement Cornwall, was born and raised in the house as were his 11 siblings. He left with his younger brother Henry to seek his fortune in Canada in 1862. Thanks to cousin Arlene I had the contact information for the Harfords and was able to get in touch. Ben invited us to visit for a couple of days and it turns out he feels very much like a distant Cornwall cousin and is very interested in the who, why and when of Clement's and Henry's descendants in Canada.  We learned a lot about the history of the house and what changes had been made before and after the times of the Cornwall family. Ben and his wife have 350 acres and a number of other houses on the estate that are rented out, some to the same people since his parents time. They do not farm anymore so the land is rented out except for a couple of fields for Ben's prize alpacas.

 

Ben and his alpacas.

    

Wendy really wanted to keep this little girl but she would not fit in her backpack!!

Ashcroft, my great-grandfather's home until 1862 when he left for Canada.

Above: the front of house

Below: the back of house with entrance

The kitchen - an add on and remade as a kitchen in Ben's parents' time.

The first afternoon Ben took us for a long walk around the estate.  It has beautiful views over the countryside.  

And interesting little buildings:  this one probably originally used as dairy or cheese making building.

The building above used as a dovecote.  A big thing in those days.

He took us for a full tour of the inside of the house and we compared the changes in the rooms and furnishings using pictures from the Cornwall photo albums from 1878.  There are 4 toilets In the house installed in the middle 1800's and the most interesting one was the mahogany bench toilet with surrounding art galley.  Unfortunately the flusher - hanging from the overhead tank was very temperamental and refused to be flushed by either Wendy or I.  Both Ben and Georgina managed with the first pull but we never did achieve success with the actual flushing motion!

Nothing like having Queen Victoria watching over you in the loo!

Ben and Georgina Harford in front of their Aga stove (did I mention I want one in blue!)

We left them yesterday and carried on by train, underground and another train to Hemingford-Grey which is not far from Cambridge.  Another visit with old friends, this time with Wendy's school friend Judy.  They were together at boarding school in Toronto in the 1950's.

We're off to explore this village and Cambridge today, and then off north to Scotland.