Walking the Chemin

We have had a great day today.  Decided that today was the day we would walk the Mosson River trail out to Grabels to where we had walked a couple of weeks ago.  We had walked the Camino route, GR 635, from Montpellier out to Grabels, 12 kms and so we wanted to see the section from Grabels to Montarnaud, another 12 Kms.  Of course we started off from home later than we wanted to so decided we would just walk to Grabels along the river, we thought 5km and have lunch there then just walk up to the plateau above town to see the view and walk back to Grabels to catch bus and tram home.  

We had a nice walk along the river, longer than it should have been because we lost the trail a few times and had to check map to see where we had gone wrong.  The beginning of the trail had had a lot of flood damage some time ago including a number of trees down in the river so there has been lots of equipment in along the river to remedy the situation.  This does not help trying to keep track of a trail. We arrived in Grabels in time for lunch but the only place open on a Monday is the PMU.  This is a bar where you can bet on the horses.  Only drinks are sold: beer, wine and coffee.  When we inquired about food the bar lady said to go down to the little store down the road and buy something and we could eat it in her bar with our drinks.  So off we went and with luck they were still open, although they close at 12:30 and reopen at 4:00.  Yes I know - odd hours for North Americans to understand.  But we were in luck as it was just passed 12:30 but we were able to go in and pick our something to eat at this very nice little fruit, veggie, wine and nut store.  We headed back and ordered beer each, and ate our lunch there.  After the beer we each at a very good coffee.  (Remember we were not planning on much more walking.)

Not very elegant but quite good.

Off we went on the actual Camino trail, this time to climb up onto the plateau just to see the view.  Once up to the top we were onto the "garrigue".  Garrigue is a low open scrub land with many ever green shrubs, low trees, aromatic herbs (lavender, thyme, rosemary) and bunch grasses, found in poor or dry soil in the Mediterranean region.  We could smell the thyme as we scrunched over little bushes of it along the trail.

And limestone.  We found it all and it was hot.  Once we got to the top, neither one of us wanted to stop and turn back.  I particularly do not like going back from whence I came, so we discussed it and decided to carry on to Montarnaud, a total of 12 km more from Grabels.  It was too hot but we went anyway and were so glad we did even though we are both suffering a bit tonight from our longer than expected hike. But before that happened one of those strange Camino occurrences happened to us.  We were just crossing over the first road after coming down from the garrigue when we saw a couple of other hikers, obviously Camino pilgrims by their packs and shells on their backs.  They were walking back and forth trying to find the trail.  Wendy called to them "salut" thinking of course they were French.  But they answered in English, with Australian accents.  We both went up to them to find out where the trail was; they had lost the trail markings so we discussed where it might go from here.  Then we discussed past caminos and found out we had both walked the le Puy route in 2013.  And then Paul says, we met a couple of Canadian women walking then.  Hmmmm, are you the friends of Polly and Sue from Tasmania?  Well yes, we are, we both said.  Then it turns out we had actually had dinner with these two Australians in Cahors, France, September 2013 along with Polly and Sue from Tasmania.  We had shared a bottle of champagne as a treat to reach the half way mark.  Then did not see them again, as often happens.  But I have a picture of the 6 of us in my album at home.  Well, how small is this world!!!!!  We walked on together all the way to Montarnaud, where they were booked for the night.  They are walking the Arles route to Spain, through the Pyrenees at Somport.  We chatted and thoroughly enjoyed the rest of our hike with them.  Took pictures and exchanged email addresses before we had to catch the last bus back to Montpellier at 6:15.  What an adventure.  We both accumulated 25 kms on our fitbits today!

Marion, Wendy, Annie and Paul

What new adventure will tomorrow bring?

Salut!

Marion et Wendy

Our Neighbourhood

As we've taken the tram through our local neighbourhood, we have slowly come to understand a little more about it - definitely not yet a full understanding of its complexities, but a beginning.  We are in the Celleneuve area of Montpellier, to the west of the city centre (15-20 min by tram). 

Just north of us is a large French pharmaceutical research facility, Sanofi, which employs 200 people. Nearby is the administrative headquarters of the Department of Herault. It is surrounded by a park area which we walked through on our previous exploratory excursion. On Sunday we returned to that area. Previously we'd followed the Camino route, and walked for a couple of hours to get there. Sunday it was about a 20 min walk from home!

In the same area there are numerous schools - at least one high school, an eco-school, and the Montpellier Business School. These help explain why there are always so many young people on the trams we ride. (Downtown there is a university, with the world's oldest medical school, as well as many other faculties). So there are lots of young students around, all over the city. 

In Celleneuve the population is predominately Muslim. We see the women wearing their headscarf coverings, and depending on the day (special holidays), men in long white gowns.  The kids have the most beautiful big brown eyes!  There is lots of outdoor socializing, by the men especially, at bars and cafés.  That includes the pizza restaurant across the street from us where they sit outside chatting till 11pm or later. 

Other parts of the city have larger populations of Africans.  The south of France is a very eclectic ethnic mix that has been interesting to experience.  

Our Saturday in Montpellier

Susan left before the crack of dawn (4:30am) on Saturday to fly back to Minneapolis.  The bus that goes from the tram line stop to the airport doesn't start until 5:30 am and Susan's flight was at 6:20. So she got a taxi.  We puttered around the first part of the morning then headed to the Arceaux market.  What fun! We bought apples, lettuce, cheese (yup, more cheese), some kind of dried sausage that only Wendy likes, macaroons (so nummy) and strawberries.  We walked home stopping at the Geant Casino store, our closest supermarket to buy a couple of things, and then continue the walk home, with the idea of picking up a fresh baguette at "our Boulangerie" for our late lunch.  Hmmmm - missed the boat on that one as our fav Boulangerie was closed from 1:30 to 3:30 for lunch, then would open again.  Our 2nd fav Boulangerie is closed on Saturday so we went home with no bread.  Had apples and cheese for lunch.  At 4 we went out again for a little walk around the neighbourhood and stopped in to pick up a baguette and it was still warm from the oven, oh wow!!!!  Walking down the street with this warm loaf in my hands was so heavenly.  As soon as we got into our place I pulled off the end and buttered it.  (You may not be aware of the fact that the French only butter their baguette at breakfast, and use jam too (confiture) but any other time of the day, they eat the bread without butter.  But as North Americans I feel it's perfectly acceptable for me to use butter at home at any time of the day! 

Supper was delicious, with pork chops in a sauce our friend Mary left in the fridge here for us to try. Only available in Spain: Heinz curry mango salsa.  If anyone else knows where we can get this without travelling to Europe for a shopping trip, let us know.  Nummy!!!! Green beans from the market and little baby French potatoes filled out the plate.  Dinner at "home", so good.  Dessert was even better, a French melon with strawberries from the market with a piece (or 3) of a good dark Belgian chocolate and a wonderful red wine from the winery we had toured last week. 

Another great day in France!

A bientôt

Wendy et Marion

Sur la Pont, d'Avignon

On Thursday we were off for our trip to Avignon.  Tram then an hour and a bit on the train brought us into this old town.  Once again we hit the tourist stream.  We came in through the gates of the old town which to me looked like turrets in a kid's play castle. This picture taken as we came out of the train station.

We wandered down the back streets which was not all that interesting until we came to Rue des Teinturiers (street of the dyers) which runs alongside a stream that is a branch of the River Sorgue.  There were 23 water wheels along this stream in the old days, used to power the town's industries in the 18th century.

These days there is just the one remaining, but it such a pretty little side street to walk along.  Lots of reasons to take pictures.

We wandered through town to the far side and the famous bridge, actually called St. Bénezet Bridge. It's impressive but having been to the Pont du Gard yesterday it's hard to be impressed in the same way, especially since it's not a bridge that goes anywhere anymore.  It was built between 1171 and 1185 and was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhone River in the Middle Ages.  It was damaged several times by floods and the residents could not afford to keep fixing it.  So now the town makes money by charging everyone 5€ to walk out on the bridge.

The ramparts on the shore side of the bridge.

Romanesque chapel on the bridge dedicated to St. Benezet.  

Bells above the chapel.  I love the bells in France and Spain.  

Door leading to tower which then leads to the draw bridge and bridge. 

We did do our dance at the end of the span but it was so windy the singing did not come across so I have put up this picture from inside the main building. Our dance was pretty sad anyway!

The big square in town was interesting, lots of folks milling about.  Interesting building across from the Pope's Palace. 

Palace of the Popes (Palais des Papes).  The pope in 1309 who was French decided it was too dangerous to live in Italy so moved to Avignon until 1417.  This was home and headquarters. 

Avignon's Cathedral is to the left of the Palace of the Popes.  The gilded Mary on the top was added much later in 1854.

We wandered through the permanent market, Les Halles and were very impressed with what we saw - several chefs doing meals as well as all the wonderful fish, bread, cheeses and veggies. 

We had lunch down the street from the market on a side street but the less said about that the better, so no pictures.  It happens. The wine is always good though.

We wandered back to main avenue and to the train station, catching the 4:38 train back to Montpellier.  This was our last day-trip out of town with Susan.  It's been great fun seeing all these little towns together.  

Coffee at Place de l'Europe, Montpellier, this morning. 

We decided to do a last tour through Montpellier with Susan, starting in the modern area of Antigone and working our way back in time to the medieval streets. 

We spent over an hour enjoying the scene and sun with our coffee - in café on left. Good chat and great surroundings. 

We finally walked on, in pedestrian area, past fountains and more cafés.  We checked out some of the shops in the old part of town, and then found a place for lunch near St. Roch's Cathedral. Then headed for home. Susan leaves before dawn tomorrow (Sat).  It's been great fun to have her here to share our travels. 

Wendy et Marion

Uzès and Pont du Gard

These two places were on our to-do list, and although they are close together it is difficult to get to them on public transport.  So we once again called on Bertrand (wine tour guy) to get us there.  He collected us at 9:15am and by 10:30 we were in the old town of Uzès, with the Wednesday market in full swing.

Lots and lots of other folks seemed to have the same idea of going to the market and probably the most English being spoken that we have heard on this trip to France. Lots of tour buses lined up on the edge of town. Bertrand dropped us off as close as he could get, a few blocks away from the arcaded main square, Place aux Herbes, where the market was set up.  We found it by following the crowd. It was a really nice feeling market.  I bought some veggies while Wendy bought some goat cheese and then some sprouts. Susan bought some pesto sauce that is to die for. We were happy.  

Lots and lots of plants; veggies, herbs, shrubs and flowers for sale. What a wonderful setting in which  to buy them. 

See Susan and Wendy in this picture at the olive table in line to buy olive-wood spoons and cheese boards.

We all tried some of the sauces that this fellow makes.  He had olives, pickles, peeled garlic and a number of different spreads.  After eating some of Susan's purchase of 'velour de balsamic' last night we wish we had tried all of them. Nummy!!!  He says he makes everything himself.  

After the market we found a nearby café for coffee, then headed off to check out some of the little arcades and streets.  Lots of fun shopping too. We found one place selling table linen and other neat stuff where the sales gal told us everything was 1/2 price. She said she would be closing soon for the winter and wanted to get rid of her inventory.  I found napkins to go with the new table cloth I bought in Palavas so I was one happy shopper!!

We had lunch at a Bretagne inspired creperie.  We all had a galette with cider from Brittany.  

Susan and I had one with ham, mushrooms in a delicious sauce, Emmental cheese, and a fried egg, while Wendy's was goat cheese and ham.  

Susan and I decided that our lunches were much prettier that Wendy's.  But both equally delicious. 

We wandered around town looking at the old buildings after lunch.  So much to see in this little town.  

Teddy Bears workshop!

La Tour Fenestrelle (windowed tower)

Bertrand picked us up at 3pm and took us to the Pont du Gard, just a few miles away.  He dropped us off so we could go in to see the museum first, and then walk out to see this amazing Roman structure. The museum displays show how this massive structure was built. Constructed around 19 B.C. as part of a 30 mile canal to carry water from Uzès to Nîmes (an important Roman city) it is now a World Heritage site.  It is the second highest standing Roman structure (Rome's Colosseum is only 6 ft higher) and its main arch is the largest the Romans ever built. 

Wendy and Susan

Marion and Wendy

We took a great walk up to a view point, and had a brief excursion walking on bridge beside it. Made a quick stop for gelato on our way back to meet Bertrand. We were home in about an hour.  Once again we had a light supper, using some of our market purchases.  A great day all around!

Second time, Sète!

We have just returned from a great day out.  Yesterday we went shopping to the big shopping mall at Odysseum.  We had thought we were just taking Susan to the outdoor store Decathelon to look for a special shirt but we had so much fun shopping that we stayed all day.  Hit most of the shops that looked interesting to us, ate some fabulous macaroons, had lunch and a good café creme.  

Today we wanted to go somewhere so Susan could put her toes in the Mediterranean and visit a beach.  We chose Sète because Wendy and I had enjoyed our first visit.  We had even more fun than expected.  We arrived and got onto the middle of the bridge right in front of the train station just as it started to swing open, rotating 90 degrees. It does this several times every day and there was a line up of boats waiting to go through.  No horns or sirens, just a bar coming down to stop pedestrians and vehicular traffic.  We could easily have jumped onto the swinging span.  Fun to watch it all take place within a few feet of us.  We carried on to the centre of town once that excitement was over. (As you can see by the pictures it was a cloudy morning but cleared up at noon and was still in middle 20's).

Susan and Wendy

We wandered through town and checked out a few little shops after our coffee in the main plaza.  Lots of fun watching people.  We walked along the canal to the tourist info to find out how to get to the beaches.  The info person was very helpful and told us which 2 local buses would work for us, so we headed out right away to find the bus stop.  

Found a beach.  Nobody there, wow!  It was beautiful and we could not believe how warm the water was.  If only we had thought to bring our bathing suits.  But it was a perfect "paddle".  Susan and I were happy - bucket list check.

Our next adventure was when we caught the bus back to town.  We realized it was a different number on the bus but driver said he was going to centre ville.  Off we go on this smaller bus and soon headed up the hill instead of around it.  We went right up to the top of the hill of Sète and down the other side.  Very narrow little streets winding down the side of the hill, with lovely houses with sea views.  Passed a chateau on the way.  We decided you needed special bus driver training to negotiate these streets.  We did end up right where he said we would, in the middle of Sète.  Bonus ride for us, didn't expect that.

We immediately walked down to the canal to take the 2pm canal boat tour.  45 minutes up and down all the canals as well as poking out into Étang de Thau, the largest of the salt water lakes that the Canal Midi empties into.  The tour was in French but we 3 were given a sheet with English explanation, not the best way to go, but it was great to see the town from the water and go underneath some of the very low bridges. 

Here's the hill above Sète and the town around it. 

Lots of very low bridges to duck under.  One barely skimmed the top of the boat so we were bent over double.  

After our canal tour we had lunch.  Did not pick well this time although our food was ok it was not a highlight for this trip.  Hard to chose when there is a whole line of restaurants along the canal, and feeling very hungry.  Oh well, all part of the travel experience.  

After lunch we walked to the train station to catch our 4:10 train "home".  Some friends of our landlord came by to drop off some things to put into the garage, and they came up and shared a glass of wine with us.  They are American but have lived here for 10 years so we had lots of questions for them.  After they left we had a 'light' supper of fresh baguette, local cheeses, olives and a local red wine from the Pic St. Loup area of our wine tour. 

Tomorrow we have planned a trip to Uzès and Pont du Gard.  Stay tuned!