I left Wendy at the post office where she had been asked to come in and discuss how they (the post office or Correos in Spanish) might be able to help the pilgrim have a better experience on the Camino. First they took her on a tour of the main building and then concentrated on the facilities for the pilgrims: left luggage and luggage transfer, the room where all the suitcases and boxes that pilgrims send on to themselves from across the country end up until they arrive to claim them, clothes that they won't use until later etc. This post office is trying to find ways to stay viable even when fewer Spanish are using their services for letters.
She even had a visit to their rooftop terrace which is not open to the public but has a fabulous view.
While she did that I checked out a bunch of shops and wandered the streets of the old town. Tried to take a picture of the food in the window at one of the restaurant/bars. A little glare but some pulpo (octopus) ready to be chopped up for lunch and served with a sprinkling of olive oil and paprika and eaten with toothpicks.
Mine was filled with cooked ham, mushrooms and emmental cheese and Wendy's with seafood and cheese both served with a nice glass of local white wine.
We headed home for an afternoon siesta then back out to the 7:30pm mass because a little birdie told us the botafumeiro would be swung at that service. This theatrical event only happens when someone, often a tour group, pays a fee for it to be done. It is not advertised because the church wants all the services attended and not just the ones when this event is scheduled. But we know a special elf who let us know in advance. Yeh! So we walked down to the cathedral 30 minutes ahead of the service and were able to get seats in the transept. No singing nun tonight, maybe she just does the earlier services. Instead a fellow (monk, brother, priest???) sang. It's too bad we were not able to understand most of the sermon because it sounded like it was all about pilgrims and probably very interesting. But because the cathedral is still open to the throngs who wander around at the same time as the service, it's a bit distracting. Watching the swinging of this huge incense burner is really cool though, even after seeing it a number of times.
The owner/server said it was reserved for some people in 40 minutes but said we could eat there until they arrived. So we did, they never arrived, and he kept taking down the tables until we were the only table left so I guess you can say we shut the place down, at 10pm. Great dinner and lots of wine, we had such a good time.
We went up to the plaza Obradoiro to listen to the Tuna band again. So full of energy and such fun. Love this music.
Wendy and Marion
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